I don't know where to begin!

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SubbuteoGAA

I don't know where to begin!

Post by SubbuteoGAA » 03 Jul 2008, 17:32

I'm starting to paint teams myself, along with about 2000 spectators. My first few attempts, though, went very badly, probably because I haven't an artistic bone in my body. I've tried a few different techniques, but I haven't found the right one yet. I'd love to know how everyone else goes about it? I'm using 2K4 players and Zeugo supporters. At the moment, most of my stands look like part of a nudist colony!

Is it necessary to put an undercoat on the figures before I begin? If so what colour should I use? Also, does anybody know what brushes to use and where I can get them? I have some brushes, but I don't know if there are any really small ones for micro details like numbers, etc.

Cheers,
Paul

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MahlerOO5
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Post by MahlerOO5 » 03 Jul 2008, 18:32

a few tins of Humbrol paint and a couple of brushes - just practise, results will soon get better. Take your time and make sure you let each coat dry - around 3 hrs I reckon not. Stir well so the matting agent gets well mixed in. I put paint on a pallette and paint from that - never straight from the tin
HW teams needed- 237
OHW; 37,38
RugbyHW: 9,24,27,29,31,33,36 Celluloids: 28 green;39;55

SubbuteoGAA

Post by SubbuteoGAA » 03 Jul 2008, 18:46

Thanks!

I've been using Games Workshop paints. Is that likely tocause problems?

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MahlerOO5
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Post by MahlerOO5 » 03 Jul 2008, 19:49

I haven't used them but if they are acrylic they are likely to be more temramental compared to enamels. I've used Tamiya enamels with mixed results. Humbrol and Revell enamels are best I think.
HW teams needed- 237
OHW; 37,38
RugbyHW: 9,24,27,29,31,33,36 Celluloids: 28 green;39;55

From red to blue

Post by From red to blue » 04 Jul 2008, 22:31

Hi SubGAA

A few thousand specs seems no trouble at all until you actually start painting. It's a slog, no matter how quickly you can paint. I'm working on a similar project and started with acrylics but switched to Humbrol enamels after the first 50 or so specs. I wouldn't go back to acrylics now for anything. Acrylics are convenient because they are water-based and because they dry quickly, but they aren't as consistent or as opaque as enamels, and the paint can run when applying varnish, which is a bit bizarre.

As Mahler says, make sure you stir the pots as well as shaking them - makes a world of difference with some colours. Also, are you using Blu-tack? I put a blob on each figure (head or feet, depending). Helps when drying them, but also makes them easier to twirl in your fingers while you're painting them.

The stability of your arms and hands is very important. I rest my elbows on a desk and put the heels of my hands together to create a stable base. The background is important too - facing a white wall is ideal. A messy desk or wall with loads of clutter will make it harder to focus on the figure you're painting, esp. in artificial light.

Another thing, as you're painting Zeugos. They are much less detailed than Subbuteo specs - you can hardly see the line of the shirt on the back of some of them, so each time you paint a figure, you're effectively defining the line yourself. This is much easier if you stick to the same figure for a while. I paint 6-10 of each type in a row for instance.

I use fine artist's brushes from the art shop, trimming them after approx. 100 specs, binning them after approx. 150. Probably no better or worse than Games Workshop brushes?

Hope these pointers help. Good luck with your project!

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MahlerOO5
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Post by MahlerOO5 » 05 Jul 2008, 06:55

From red to blue wrote:Another thing, as you're painting Zeugos. They are much less detailed than Subbuteo specs - you can hardly see the line of the shirt on the back of some of them, so each time you paint a figure, you're effectively defining the line yourself.
interesting that as I've never actually painted any genuine subbuteo fans - though I have a few old ones to strip and paint (kindly donated by Rob Tornado :thumbsup: last time he was around here for a flick...)

lack of lines is an advantage I think in respect of chubby man at least, because half the time I want him wearing a t-shirt or football shirt not a jacket.
HW teams needed- 237
OHW; 37,38
RugbyHW: 9,24,27,29,31,33,36 Celluloids: 28 green;39;55

From red to blue

Post by From red to blue » 07 Jul 2008, 12:47

yeah, he's the hardest to 'do anything with'. His arms are just too fat to pass off as bare arms so he has to be in sleeves.

There are more differences than the line at the back of the shirt. Zuego plastic doesn't take the paint as well as Subbuteo I've found - it's a bit too glossy. But on the plus side, there are no sprue marks, and they are always perfectly formed, whereas Subbuteo specs are occasionaly deformed in some way.

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MahlerOO5
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Post by MahlerOO5 » 07 Jul 2008, 20:41

From red to blue wrote:I use fine artist's brushes from the art shop, trimming them after approx. 100 specs, binning them after approx. 150. Probably no better or worse than Games Workshop brushes?
I tend to keep 2 relatively new brushes - one fine and one very fine - for doing hoops, stripes, and hairlines

Other than I happily use older brushes for doing the shirts and trousers...I probably have done 800-900 spectators with the brush I'm currently using, but its on its last legs now
HW teams needed- 237
OHW; 37,38
RugbyHW: 9,24,27,29,31,33,36 Celluloids: 28 green;39;55

From red to blue

Post by From red to blue » 07 Jul 2008, 21:20

I probably have done 800-900 spectators with the brush I'm currently using, but its on its last legs now
Ha ha! Nice one! =CLAP

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lionofludesch
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Post by lionofludesch » 08 Jul 2008, 16:48

:lol!: :lol!: :lol!:
FIFA World Cuptipping competition
Winner 2010,, joint with Takis2014 and 2018


® :angry:

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MahlerOO5
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Post by MahlerOO5 » 08 Jul 2008, 17:01

:-\ pun unintended :-\
HW teams needed- 237
OHW; 37,38
RugbyHW: 9,24,27,29,31,33,36 Celluloids: 28 green;39;55

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